SCV INSTALLATION AND SERVICE 

 

 

 

     Does it really matter who does the install? Yes. Why? Because I have seen the sort of bad work done by others in our area. On this page I am going to try to explain the level of quality work done by us here at SCV and also along the way I will point out the bad work I have seen. Usually the installs done by us are done by me (Greg the owner operator) and not by someone that may not care or know how to do good quality work. If you are considering to do the install yourself you will find the following helpful in that you will do a better job or you might even decide not to do it yourself and let me do it for you. Again I hope the following helps you to get it done right. You don't want not right.  

 

 

Referances:

Firecode and Electrical:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

              Install quality of workmanship and methods for install (new construction)

    

                             How it goes

 Find the inlet placements by measuring from the outside perimeter inward. The hose lengths are 25,30 and 35 feet. I aim to put the inlets in the halls and not inside rooms. You will get more coverage and also the inlets will not limit the placement of furniture inside rooms. Also doors will open into rooms and thereby the inlets in the halls can't be blocked. Now that we have an idea about where we want the inlet we need to drill through to pass the pipe. Before drilling the 2 1/2 inch holes I always put a small 1/4 inch hole and a hard wire probe through so I can go and look to see really where the big hole will go through. This step is most important because you don't want to drill through floor joist or wires, pipes or radiant floor heating system tubes, ect. With SCV you will not have the structure compromised by improper drilling or notching. Now that the holes are drilled through the inlet ruff bracket will be attached to the wall stud. The inlet bracket for the inlets are different from the other things like electrical switches in that they are attached to the front facing side of the stud. This can make getting the inlet straight hard because of the grain of the wood. The inlet bracket comes with pre drilled screw holes but often these holes are not in a good position in relation to the grain making it impossible to get it strait. The remedy is to drill other holes in the bracket that will line up with the gain and then it can be set strait with a level. I had a guy from another central vac company that said he just put the inlet bracket on loosely so that when the inlet finish door is put it can be straitened later? I don't think so. The inlet height off the floor needs to be considered as well. Unless I'm told otherwise I will simply put up the brackets in line with the other things on the wall, like the electrical outlet plugs.  The pipe run will run from the bracket away towards the tank location now that the inlet ruff brackets are set. I always put a pipe strap near the inlet bracket to isolate it from any stress from the pipe again to keep it strait. As the pipe run extends away I minimize the angle of turn at the elbow as best I can. I use the 30 degree turns and not the 45's that I always see used by others. The 30's give a better flow with less restriction. I always use the blue PVC glue at my connections to that when I go back to inspect my work I can see that yes it is glued and there's no question about it. I always dry fit my work together so that I know it will fit together easily and not be forced together. Improper or not glued connections are the most common reason for a problem with the install. Deburing of the cut end of pipe are another super important thing to do to prevent clogs. Don't assume that these most basic steps will be done, you need to make shur of it. I you use us for your install you will know that It will be done right. You don't want not right.  Along the pipe run there will be connections where two pipes join together. I would not allow for a "gravity drop" where dirt from one pipe can fall into another at a connection. This gravity drop error is another reason for clogging that I have seen. Again, if the install is done right then you won't have a problem. As the pipe continues along there might be times when the pipes must pass through a Sheet rocked barrier. At this point I convert the pipe to metal to satisfy fire code. This happens most often in commercial installs or when the pipe enters the garage area where the CV tank usually goes.  Another kind of inlet is the vacpan. The best place to put these are under cabinets and not under anything big and heavy like an oven. These are designed to fit into a standard 4 inch toe kick space. I ruff it up to the general location and positioned to point towards the face for final hook-up later. I also will use a couple of 30's to get the right height to meet with finished floor level.

    I could keep going but I think you get the idea. There really can be a big difference in quality of workmanship. With SCV you will get the best there is.                     

    

   

    

 

 

 

                                                      

 

 

 

 

Partial remodel underway